Honestly, I still remember the day I bought my first pair of kiltie boots. Looked amazing, felt solid, and then came the lacing. I stared at those tasselled flaps like I was trying to solve a Rubik’s Cube blindfolded. It took me a solid twenty minutes, fumbling with what felt like half a mile of waxed cord, just to get them vaguely presentable enough to leave the house. I ended up tripping twice before I even hit the sidewalk. Not exactly the suave entrance I’d envisioned.
So, how to lace kiltie boots? It’s not rocket science, but it sure feels like it when you’re trying to make sense of those extra bits of leather and the sheer length of some laces. Most guides make it sound like you just thread and go. Bullshit.
There’s a right way and a profoundly wrong way, and trust me, I’ve lived through the wrong way more times than I care to admit. I’ve wasted hours, frayed nerves, and even bought the wrong kind of laces, all before figuring out what actually works.
The Kiltie Flap: What Even Is It?
Right, let’s talk about the kiltie itself. It’s that extra bit of leather, often fringed or plain, that sits under the main laces. Its original purpose, so I’ve read, was to stop dirt and debris from getting into the boot eyelets and the boot itself. Think of it as a built-in gaiter, but for your shoe. Some people hate them, some love them. Me? I’m neutral. They look cool on the right boot, and sometimes they’re a pain in the ass to deal with when you’re trying to get ready in a hurry, which, let’s be honest, is most mornings for me.
The material of the kiltie can vary. Sometimes it’s the same leather as the boot, giving a seamless look. Other times, it’s a contrasting material, adding a bit of flair. The way it’s attached also differs – some are stitched down all around, others might have a single stitch or even be left relatively free. This detail, believe it or not, can slightly affect how you approach the lacing, especially if it’s a very thick or stiff kiltie.
[IMAGE: Close-up of a kiltie boot with the tasseled flap clearly visible, showing its attachment to the main boot body.] (See Also: De Niro Lace Up Riding Boots)
My First Kiltie Boot Lacing Debacle
I bought a pair of these ridiculously expensive, hand-stitched moc-toe kiltie boots a few years back. They cost me north of $350, and I treated them like a Faberge egg. The first time I had to lace them, I was already running late for a meeting. I just shoved the laces through the eyelets, yanked them tight, and tied a quick knot. Within an hour, the kiltie had bunched up into an ugly lump, making the whole boot look lopsided and frankly, cheap. The laces were also digging into my ankles because I’d tied them too high, trying to compensate for the bunched kiltie. I looked like I was wearing clown shoes with a serious foot problem. That day, I learned that just going through the holes isn’t enough. I spent another $50 on a different set of laces the next week because I’d managed to fray the originals by trying to untangle the mess I’d made.
It wasn’t just about aesthetics; it was about comfort and the longevity of the boot. A poorly laced boot can lead to uneven wear on the leather, stretched-out eyelets, and general discomfort. Who wants that?
The Standard Approach: It Works, Mostly
Okay, so the most common way you’ll see kiltie boots laced, and the one that most manufacturers probably assume you’ll use, is pretty straightforward. You treat the kiltie as part of the boot’s structure, lacing right over it.
- Start at the Bottom: Thread your laces through the lowest set of eyelets. Make sure the lace is even on both sides.
- Go Over the Kiltie: For the next set of eyelets, bring the laces *over* the kiltie flap and thread them through the corresponding holes on the boot. This is the standard ‘straight bar lacing’ or ‘straight lacing’ method.
- Continue Upwards: Keep going, always ensuring the laces pass *over* the kiltie. You want the kiltie to lie as flat as possible against the boot tongue underneath.
- The Top Knot: Once you reach the top, tie your knot as usual. Aim for a snug fit, but not so tight that it restricts circulation or makes the kiltie buckle.
This method is simple and effective for most situations. The kiltie stays relatively in place, and you get a clean look. It’s what I defaulted to for a while, and it worked fine for casual wear.
[IMAGE: Step-by-step illustration showing laces going over the kiltie flap and through the boot eyelets.]
My Contrarian View: Why You Should Lace Under the Kiltie Sometimes
Now, here’s where I go against the grain. Everyone says to lace *over* the kiltie. It’s the ‘proper’ way. I disagree, and here is why: depending on the stiffness and cut of your specific kiltie, lacing over it can actually make it bunch up more, especially if the kiltie is slightly too long or the lacing tension isn’t perfect. When you lace over, you’re essentially forcing the kiltie down with the lace, creating pressure points that can cause it to fold or wrinkle awkwardly. This is especially true for kiltie boots designed with a more pronounced, stiffer flap. (See Also: How To Tie Laces On Boat Shoes)
So, what’s the alternative? Lace *under* the kiltie for at least the first few eyelets. This means the lace passes *behind* the kiltie, between it and the main boot body, before going through the eyelets. This can help to hold the kiltie down more smoothly, especially at the start. You might need to experiment. For the upper eyelets, you might still want to go over the kiltie, or even alternate. It’s about finding what makes your specific boot’s kiltie lie flat and comfortably. I’ve found on my favorite pair of Red Wings, lacing under for the first two eyelets and then over for the rest makes the kiltie sit like it was glued there.
Lacing Patterns: Beyond the Straight Line
Just like with regular boots, you don’t have to stick to the basic straight bar lacing. While the kiltie adds a layer of complexity, you can still play around. The key is to maintain the kiltie’s flatness. Criss-cross lacing (or ‘bar lacing’) is common, but if you’re not careful, the crossover points can snag on the kiltie, causing it to pull unevenly. This is where the waxed cotton laces I prefer really shine – they have just enough grip to stay put without being sticky.
For kiltie boots, I often recommend a variation of the straight bar lacing but with a twist. Instead of just running the lace straight across, consider a ‘ladder lacing’ or ‘loop lacing’ pattern *on the upper eyelets* once the kiltie is secured. This can help distribute pressure more evenly and keep the boot snug without pulling the kiltie out of shape. It looks a bit more technical, but it feels amazing.
One pattern I found surprisingly effective on a pair of Chippewa boots was a modified criss-cross where the crossover point was hidden *under* the kiltie itself, effectively using the kiltie as a little lace retainer. It took me about seven attempts to get it right, but the result was a boot that felt perfectly molded to my foot and looked incredibly neat. This is a bit more advanced, and honestly, if you’re just starting, stick to the simple methods until you’re comfortable.
| Lacing Method | Pros | Cons | My Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Standard Straight (Over Kiltie) | Easy, common, keeps kiltie somewhat contained. | Can cause kiltie bunching, less secure fit sometimes. | The default. Fine if it works for your boots. |
| Under-Kiltie Start | Helps lay kiltie flatter initially, better integration. | Requires a bit more thought, might look slightly different. | Highly recommended for many boot types. |
| Criss-Cross | Secure, classic boot look. | Can snag kiltie, harder to adjust tension evenly. | Use with caution. |
| Ladder/Loop (Upper Only) | Excellent pressure distribution, very secure. | More complex to learn, can look busy if overdone. | Great for comfort once mastered. |
Lace Material Matters
You wouldn’t believe the difference lace material makes. I once bought a pair of boots that came with these thin, slippery, almost plastic-feeling laces. They were a nightmare. Trying to tie them, they’d constantly come undone, and when laced through the eyelets, they’d dig into the leather. On kiltie boots, where you have that extra layer and potentially more friction, good laces are non-negotiable. I’ve found that waxed cotton laces are the way to go. They have a good grip, they stay tied, and they don’t stretch out like some synthetic materials. Brands like Iron Laces or even some higher-end boot manufacturers offer excellent options. The thickness is also key – too thin and they cut in; too thick and they’re bulky and hard to manage, especially with the kiltie.
A decent pair of laces might set you back $10-$20, but compared to the frustration of dealing with bad ones, or worse, damaging your boots, it’s a small price to pay. The American Podiatric Medical Association recommends footwear that fits properly and doesn’t cause undue pressure points, and that absolutely includes the laces you use. (See Also: How To Lace Running Shoes For Wide Feet)
Troubleshooting Common Kiltie Lacing Issues
What if your kiltie just won’t lie flat? Or the laces keep coming undone? Here are a few things I’ve learned through sheer stubbornness.
- Kiltie Bunched Up: Try lacing *under* the kiltie for the first few eyelets. If it’s still an issue, check if your kiltie is too long for the boot. Sometimes a tiny bit of trimming (carefully!) is needed, though I’d only do that as a last resort.
- Laces Constantly Loosening: You’re likely using the wrong laces or tying a weak knot. Switch to waxed cotton laces. Learn a ‘surgeon’s knot’ or a ‘reef knot’ for a more secure tie. A double knot is often overkill and can be a pain to undo.
- Uneven Tension: This is tough. It often comes down to how you pull the laces. Try to lace one side, then the other, pulling evenly. When you finish, gently tug each lace segment between eyelets to equalize tension before tying.
- Kiltie Dragging/Rubbing: Make sure the kiltie isn’t so loose it’s flapping around. If it’s causing irritation, consider if it needs to be secured a little more. A tiny dab of fabric glue on the underside might work in extreme cases, but this is permanent, so be sure.
[IMAGE: A person demonstrating how to tie a secure knot on a kiltie boot, with the kiltie lying flat.]
The Final Tidy-Up
Once everything is laced and tied, take a moment to admire your work. Smooth down the kiltie. Make sure the laces look neat and even. This isn’t just about appearances; it’s about ensuring the boot functions as it should. A well-laced boot feels different. It feels like an extension of your foot, not a separate, awkward object.
Seriously, give it a try. You might find yourself spending an extra minute or two getting your kiltie boots right, but the payoff in comfort and style is absolutely worth it. It’s like anything else in life: a little bit of attention to detail goes a long way.
Verdict
So, that’s the lowdown on how to lace kiltie boots. It’s not some arcane secret, but it does require a bit more thought than your average pair of sneakers. My biggest takeaway, and probably yours too, is that the ‘standard’ way isn’t always the best way for *your* specific boots.
Don’t be afraid to experiment with lacing under the kiltie, especially at the start. And for crying out loud, get decent waxed laces. Those cheap, slippery ones are the enemy of a good boot day.
Next time you’re faced with those tasselled flaps and a tangle of cord, remember this. It’s about making the boot work for you, not the other way around. Give it a shot with your own pair and see what feels right.
Recommended Products
No products found.
