Honestly, I almost threw my Ariats across the stable. That was after my fourth attempt to get the laces through those danged rubber eyelets on my new pair of Ariat rubber tall boots. It felt like trying to thread a spaghetti noodle through the eye of a sewing machine. I’d spent a good chunk of change on these boots, assuming they’d be as practical as my old ones, but this lacing situation was a complete joke.
Then there was that time I bought special silicone lace lubricant. Cost me nearly $30. It did absolutely nothing but make my fingers slick and smell faintly of artificial strawberries. A total waste of money, just like most of the ‘solutions’ I found online.
You’re here because you’re wrestling with how to lace Ariat tall boots rubber, and frankly, you’re probably as frustrated as I was. Forget what the fancy online tutorials tell you; most of them are written by people who’ve never actually *worn* these boots in the mud.
The Rubber Eyelet Conspiracy
So, the deal with these rubber eyelets on certain Ariat tall boots, particularly their rubber ones, is that they’re designed for durability, not ease of lacing. They’re meant to withstand mud, muck, and general abuse. The problem? That same rubber can grip the laces like a vice, especially if the laces themselves are a bit worn or stiff. It’s like a tiny, rubbery trap. I spent around $50 on different types of laces, thinking that was the issue, before realizing the lacing *technique* was the real culprit.
It’s not about having super strength. It’s about understanding the material and using a little bit of finesse, or rather, a specific kind of brute force that doesn’t involve yanking until your arm falls off.
[IMAGE: Close-up of the rubber eyelets on an Ariat tall boot, showing the texture and size.]
My Epic Lacing Failures (so You Don’t Have To)
I remember one particularly miserable morning before a horse show. It was pouring rain, and I was already running late. My brand-new Ariat rubber tall boots were giving me hell. I’d yanked and twisted and cussed for a solid fifteen minutes, and the lace was only halfway through one of the eyelets, looking like a stubborn worm trying to burrow into concrete. My hands were sore, I was sweating despite the cold rain, and the horse was whinnying impatiently from the pasture. I ended up just shoving the boot on, leaving half the eyelets undone, which is a terrible idea, by the way. The boot rubbed my ankle raw by the end of the day. Lesson learned: don’t half-ass it.
This wasn’t a one-off. I’ve seen people try to force their laces through with tools, almost tearing the rubber. It’s like trying to shove a square peg into a round hole, but the peg is made of cotton and the hole is made of a stubborn, unyielding rubber compound.
What Everyone Gets Wrong About Lacing Rubber Boots
Everyone says, ‘Just push the lace through.’ Or ‘Use a little wax.’ Honestly, I think that advice is mostly for standard leather boots. For these rubber Ariats, the real trick isn’t about making the lace slippery. It’s about creating a slightly wider opening and using a bit of a sawing motion, combined with a firm, steady pull. Think less ‘push’ and more ‘guide and saw.’ You’re not trying to brute-force a stiff piece of wire; you’re trying to persuade a flexible cord through a slightly constricted opening.
The common advice is to use beeswax or boot wax. While that helps a bit with friction on leather, on rubber eyelets, it just makes the lace gummy and harder to grip. I found it made things worse.
The ‘saw and Twist’ Technique: It’s Not Rocket Science
Here’s what finally worked for me, and it’s ridiculously simple once you get the hang of it. You need to treat the lacing process less like a straight pull and more like you’re trying to get a stubborn zipper to move. First, make sure your laces are in good condition. If they’re frayed or overly stiff, it’s worth replacing them. I use paracord for my riding boots now; it’s tough and doesn’t snag as easily. Though, standard durable boot laces work fine if they aren’t ancient.
The Process:
- Angle is Everything: Don’t try to push the lace straight through. Angle the lace tip slightly upwards, towards the top of the eyelet opening.
- The Saw Motion: Once the tip is angled in, give it a gentle back-and-forth sawing motion while simultaneously applying steady, downward pressure. You’re trying to create a tiny bit of space by the entry point.
- Twist and Pull: As you saw, slightly twist the lace. This seems counterintuitive, but it helps the lace find its path through the rubber. Then, with a firm, consistent pull, guide the lace through.
- Repeat and Be Patient: Do this for each eyelet. It takes longer than you’d expect the first few times, maybe 5-10 minutes per boot.
It feels awkward at first, like learning to walk again. The rubber grommets have a bit of give, but you have to work *with* that give, not against it. Imagine you’re trying to guide a very strong, very thin snake through a slightly tight tunnel.
[IMAGE: Diagram showing the angle and sawing motion for lacing through rubber eyelets.]
Lacing Materials: What Works and What Sucks
You might be tempted to grab any old shoelace. Don’t. Some materials just don’t cut it. Nylon laces can be too smooth and slip through your fingers, making the sawing difficult. Cotton laces, while common, can fray easily and snag. I’ve experimented a lot here.
| Lace Material | Pros | Cons | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Standard Cotton Boot Laces | Widely available, cheap. | Fray easily, can snag in rubber. | Okay if new, but prone to wear. |
| Nylon/Polyester (Smooth) | Strong, resistant to rot. | Can be too slippery for the ‘saw’ technique. | Better than cotton long-term, but harder to grip. |
| Paracord (550) | Extremely durable, good grip, doesn’t fray easily, water-resistant. | Can be a bit thick, requires tight knotting. | My personal favorite. Worth the slight extra effort. |
| Specialty ‘Grippy’ Laces | Designed for grip. | Often overpriced, can be stiff. | Hit or miss; often not worth the extra cost. |
The key is a lace that has some texture but isn’t so rough it’ll shred itself or the rubber. Paracord is a good balance. It’s tough, and the woven texture helps it grip just enough for the sawing motion.
When to Call It Quits and Buy New Laces
Sometimes, the issue isn’t your technique; it’s the laces themselves. If your laces are visibly frayed, thinning, or have developed a nasty kink that just won’t come out, toss them. Continuing to fight with them is like trying to fix a flat tire by yelling at it. The American Academy of Equestrian Arts and Sciences (AAEA) recommends replacing worn gear regularly for safety and performance, and that definitely includes your boot laces. Worn laces can snap at the worst possible moment, like when you’re mounting up.
I’ve found that a good pair of laces can last me a solid year, sometimes longer, depending on how much I’m riding and how muddy it gets. But when they start looking sad, it’s time for them to go to the great lace bin in the sky.
Why This Matters: More Than Just Tight Boots
Getting the lacing right isn’t just about aesthetics, though nobody wants sloppy-looking boots. Proper lacing means your foot is secured correctly within the boot. For riding, this is actually important for stability and preventing your foot from sliding around inside. A loose boot can lead to blisters, discomfort, and even affect your communication with the horse. A boot that’s too tight, because you’ve cinched it down unevenly from bad lacing, can cut off circulation. Finding that sweet spot with how to lace Ariat tall boots rubber properly is key to comfort and function.
It’s about making sure your gear works *for* you, not against you. These boots are built tough, and with the right approach, they’ll serve you well for years, mud and all.
[IMAGE: Rider with properly laced Ariat tall boots, showing the neat and secure fit.]
People Also Ask
Can I Use Regular Shoelaces in Ariat Boots?
You can, but it’s not always ideal. Standard shoelaces might not be durable enough for the demands placed on riding boots. They can fray or break more easily. For Ariat tall boots with rubber eyelets, you need laces that offer good grip and are tough, like paracord or specific heavy-duty boot laces, to make the lacing process easier and more secure.
How Do I Stop My Boot Laces From Coming Undone?
A strong knot is your best friend. After you’ve laced your boots, tie a double knot. For extra security, especially if your laces are a bit slippery, you can try a surgeon’s knot before tying the final double knot. Some people even use a tiny dab of clear nail polish on the knot itself, but I find a solid knot technique works best.
Are Rubber Eyelets Bad for Laces?
Not necessarily bad, but they can be challenging. The rubber material can create more friction and grip than traditional metal or even plastic eyelets. This means laces can wear out faster if you’re constantly struggling to get them through. However, they are often more durable themselves and less prone to breaking or snagging on things compared to metal eyelets.
Can I Lubricate Ariat Rubber Eyelets?
While some people try various lubricants, I’d advise against it for standard lacing. Most lubricants make the laces too slippery, which hinders the ‘sawing’ motion needed to get them through the tight rubber. If you’re having extreme difficulty, a very small amount of a dry silicone spray *applied to the lace itself*, not the eyelet, might help, but it’s usually unnecessary if you use the right technique.
Verdict
So, that’s the lowdown on how to lace Ariat tall boots rubber without losing your mind. It’s not about fancy products; it’s about a technique that respects the material.
Remember the saw-and-twist. It sounds silly, but it genuinely makes a difference. I spent probably an extra $100 over the years testing laces and gadgets before I landed on this simple method.
Give the paracord a shot if your current laces are giving you grief. And for goodness sake, take the extra minute to lace them properly; your ankles will thank you.
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