Honestly, I almost threw a pair of brand-new sneakers in the trash once. Not because they were bad shoes – they were actually pretty decent. No, it was because I spent a solid, frustrating hour staring at them, completely baffled about how do you put laces on shoes when the holes seemed determined to mock me.
Seemed simple, right? Just thread the lace through. Wrong. My first attempts looked like a toddler had tried to knit a very sad, lopsided sweater. This isn’t rocket science, people!
It took me more than a few tries, and frankly, a fair bit of grumbling, to figure out the right way. I’ve wasted money on fancy lacing systems and tangled shoelaces that looked like they’d been through a blender.
There’s a method to the madness, and once you see it, it clicks. Let’s get those shoes looking less like a disaster zone and more like actual footwear.
The Basic Weave: Straight Lacing Done Right
Look, everyone *thinks* they know how to thread a shoelace. But most of the time, what people end up with is a mess that digs into their ankles or loosens up after five minutes. The goal here is symmetry and even tension. You want the top of your shoe to feel snug, not like a vice grip, and definitely not like it’s going to fly off when you walk.
Start with the lace going through the two bottom eyelets, from the outside in. You want an equal amount of lace hanging on either side. This is your foundation, so don’t rush it. Think of it like laying the first brick on a wall – if it’s crooked, the whole thing is going to look off.
Then, you cross the laces over each other, going from the inside of one eyelet to the outside of the eyelet directly above it on the other side. Keep doing this, alternating sides, until you reach the top. The key is to keep the laces flat and untwisted.
My first pair of actual dress shoes, a nice pair of Oxfords I splurged on in college, had these thin, waxed laces. They looked sharp. They also felt like they were designed by someone who had never actually *worn* shoes. They constantly slipped, and no matter how tight I tied them, they’d loosen before my first class. I spent about $45 on various lacing techniques and waxes trying to make them stay put, all because I didn’t understand the simple physics of a good lacing job.
[IMAGE: Close-up shot of the bottom two eyelets of a shoe, showing a shoelace threaded through from the outside, with equal lengths on both sides.] (See Also: How Can I Clean Suede Shoes)
When Standard Just Doesn’t Cut It: Alternative Lacing Patterns
Okay, so you’ve got the basic straight bar lacing down. Great. But what if your shoes have more holes than a golf ball? Or what if you want them to look a bit different, maybe even add a touch of personal flair? That’s where things get interesting, and honestly, a lot more fun than just looping and tying.
There are dozens of ways to put laces on shoes beyond the standard criss-cross. Some are purely aesthetic, like the ladder lacing or the zigzag. Others are designed for specific purposes, like the straight-bar lacing I mentioned, which is fantastic for dress shoes because it hides the criss-cross and looks super clean. Then there’s the surgeon’s knot, which isn’t a lacing pattern but a knot that dramatically helps keep your laces tied. Honestly, I think that knot is more important than half the fancy lacing styles out there.
One popular one is the “sawtooth” or “stair-step” lacing. You feed the lace straight across the bottom two eyelets from the outside. Then, on one side, you bring the lace straight up through the next eyelet on the *same* side, creating a vertical line. On the other side, you bring the lace across to the *opposite* eyelet. Repeat this, going straight up on one side and across to the other, and you get a cool, clean look that’s also pretty secure.
For hiking boots or shoes where you need a super-tight fit, especially around the ankle, consider the “windowpane” lacing. This creates little squares, or windows, which can be handy for locking your heel in place. It involves a bit more lace length and looks quite intricate, but it’s surprisingly effective. I saw this pattern recommended by a guy who runs a small, independent outdoor gear shop in Colorado – he said it’s what he uses for his own serious trekking.
[IMAGE: A shoe with the sawtooth lacing pattern clearly visible, showing the vertical lines on one side and the horizontal crossing on the other.]
Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them
Honestly, the biggest mistake people make is assuming all shoelaces are created equal. They are not. Some are slippery, some are thick and bulky, some are too short, and some are ridiculously long. Buying the right length is actually pretty important. Too short and you can’t tie a decent knot; too long and you’re tripping over yourself.
Another common issue? Lacing them too tightly at the bottom. Your foot naturally swells a bit as you walk or run. If you’ve got those bottom eyelets cinched down like a tourniquet, you’re going to experience some serious discomfort. The American Podiatric Medical Association (APMA) even has guidelines on proper footwear fit, and while they don’t specifically mention lacing tension, the principle of not constricting blood flow is universal.
People also tend to forget about the material of the lace itself. Cotton laces are soft and easy to knot but wear out quickly and can stretch. Polyester or nylon laces are more durable and less prone to stretching, but can be slipperier. Waxed laces offer a good grip and a classic look, but they can fray if you’re not careful. For athletic shoes, you want something that provides grip and won’t come undone mid-sprint. (See Also: Can You Clean Mold Off Shoes)
I once bought a pair of athletic shoes that came with these super thin, slick, white laces. They looked fine, but every single time I went for a run, I had to stop at least twice to re-tie them. It was infuriating. I ended up spending $8 on a pair of thicker, grippier laces from a running store, and it made all the difference. That was one of those moments where I realized the accessories matter just as much as the main item.
Finally, and this is a big one: don’t be afraid to experiment. Not every lacing method works for every foot or every shoe. What feels amazing for one person might be torture for another. It’s like choosing a favorite tool; you might have to try a few before you find the one that fits your hand perfectly.
[IMAGE: A close-up of a shoe with an overly tight lacing pattern at the bottom, showing the eyelets straining and the lace cutting into the shoe material.]
Choosing the Right Laces
So, how do you pick the right kind of lace in the first place? It sounds simple, but there’s actually a bit more to it than grabbing the first pack you see. Think about what you’re using the shoes for. Are they your beat-up sneakers for gardening, your dress shoes for important meetings, or your high-performance running shoes? Each has different needs.
For casual sneakers, round or flat cotton or polyester laces are usually fine. They’re comfortable and come in a million colors. If you’ve got boots, especially work boots, you’ll probably want something thicker and more durable, like a braided nylon or a strong cotton blend. These can handle a lot of stress and won’t snap as easily.
Running shoes, as I learned the hard way, need laces that stay tied. Look for laces with a bit of texture or grip – sometimes they’re slightly flattened or have a special weave. Avoid super shiny, smooth laces unless you plan on stopping every mile to knot them up again. And for dress shoes? Thin, waxed flat laces are usually the classic choice, giving a sleek look that doesn’t overpower the shoe.
Color is obviously a huge part of it, too. Matching your laces to your shoe color is the safest bet for a conservative look. Contrasting colors can be a way to add a pop of personality, but it’s easy to go wrong. A bright red lace on a black shoe? Maybe. A neon green lace on a pale blue shoe? You’d better be very sure of your fashion sense. Generally, sticking to tones within the same color family or a classic black/white/brown works best if you’re unsure.
[IMAGE: A collection of different shoelace types laid out on a neutral surface: round cotton, flat polyester, waxed, and thick braided nylon.] (See Also: Does Acetone Clean Shoes)
Faq: Your Burning Shoelace Questions Answered
Why Do My Shoelaces Keep Coming Untied?
This is usually down to the type of knot you’re using and the material of the lace. Most people tie a ‘granny knot’ instead of a ‘reef knot’ or ‘square knot’. A granny knot is inherently unstable and will loosen with movement. Also, very slick laces, like some synthetic or waxed ones, are more prone to slipping out of any knot. Using a double knot can help in a pinch, but learning a secure knot is the real solution.
How Long Should Shoelaces Be?
The length depends on the number of eyelets on your shoe. For shoes with 5-6 pairs of eyelets, 45 inches is a common length. Shoes with 7-8 pairs might need 54 inches. It’s always better to have laces that are a little too long than too short; you can always tuck away excess lace. A good rule of thumb is to measure your old laces if you can, or check the shoe manufacturer’s recommendations.
Can I Use Different Colored Laces on Each Shoe?
Absolutely! If you want to make a statement or add a bit of fun to your footwear, mixing lace colors can be a great way to do it. It’s a low-risk way to experiment with style. Just make sure the colors don’t clash too horribly, unless that’s the intended effect. Sometimes one shoe with a bold color and the other neutral can look quite striking.
What’s the Best Way to Clean Shoelaces?
Most fabric shoelaces can be cleaned by hand in a sink with warm water and a bit of laundry detergent or dish soap. You can scrub them gently with an old toothbrush. For tougher stains, you can soak them for a while. After washing, rinse them thoroughly and let them air dry completely. Avoid putting them in the dryer, as this can sometimes shrink or damage them.
[IMAGE: A pair of shoes with one red lace and one black lace, showing a deliberate color contrast.]
A Table of Common Lacing Patterns
| Lacing Pattern | Description | Best For | My Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Criss-Cross | The classic X pattern. | Most casual shoes, everyday wear. | Works fine, but can look busy on shoes with many eyelets. Not my favorite for looks. |
| Straight Bar (Bar Lacing) | Laces run straight across horizontally. | Dress shoes, formal shoes, anything where a clean look is desired. | My go-to for dress shoes. Looks incredibly sharp and hides the lacing well. |
| Ladder Lacing | Creates horizontal ladder-like rungs. | Boots, high-tops, or shoes where you want to control tension at different points. | Looks cool and offers good adjustability, but can use a lot of lace. Good for specialized needs. |
| Sawtooth Lacing | Vertical lines on one side, horizontal on the other. | Sneakers, casual shoes, offers a clean aesthetic. | A nice middle-ground. Easier to do than ladder and looks much better than basic criss-cross. |
| Zipper Lacing | A very secure and decorative pattern. | Athletic shoes, hiking boots where security is paramount. | Looks impressive and holds tight, but can be fiddly to get right. Worth it if your shoes keep coming undone. |
Final Verdict
So, there you have it. Figuring out how do you put laces on shoes isn’t some arcane secret whispered only to cobblers. It’s about understanding the basic mechanics, picking the right materials, and not being afraid to try a different approach.
Don’t get discouraged if your first few attempts look a bit wonky. I still remember that day with the Oxfords, feeling like I was defeated by a piece of string. It’s all part of the process.
Take another look at those eyelets, grab your laces, and try one of the methods we talked about. You might be surprised how much better your shoes feel and look when they’re laced up properly.
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